We walked for two days in the wind and rain, sometimes just with our rainjackets for protection, sometimes with our nanopuff jackets underneath for additional warmth. Despite the rain and fog, or maybe because of it, the territory we covered was interesting, trees with their leaves turning colors standing in the mist, occasional farmers plowing […]

Karen woke up today with four suspicious marks on her face, which were noticed by the owner of the albergue, where we were staying. He suspected bedbugs. He went with us back to our room to see if there were bedbugs in the bed where Karen and I slept. Dramatically flinging back our sheets, he […]

Our start this morning was delayed a half hour to fix a strap on my pack that had pulled out. However, at 8 AM it was still dark as we walked through the streets of Castrojeriz. The landscape today is stretched wider with greater distances between hills, longer uphills, and a sense of expansiveness. Towns […]

We spent a rest day in Burgos after having a wonderful paella dinner in an upscale restaurant the night before. We spent more than an hour in the main church in Burgos, a very large, ornate structure with detailed figurines, statues, columns, and paintings in every nook and cranny. Standing on the floor of the […]

We have not had reliable WiFi for several days, the walks have been long, and days are blending together for me. The weather is getting colder. We hiked in the rain until noon out of Santo Domingo, walking past enormous haystacks from cut fields in rolling hills. Afternoons have heated up, and we walk in […]

We got up early today for a longer walk, 14.6 miles to Santo Domingo. We followed Camino arrows in the dark in Najera, following dark alleys until it felt like we were in a maze and thoroughly lost. Nobody was up exept some men delivering bread. They pointed in one direction for us, we followed […]

This was a relatively short hike, 10.5 miles to Najera, another hillside town with a university and more commerce than most towns so far. We woke to a rain storm pelting our window. Karen’s boots had been left outside, and they were wet. We ate a breakfast we had purchased at the grocery store the […]

We got off to a 7:00 start after buying breakfast ingredients from a panaderia (bread shop). We hiked with our headlamps in misting rain with rather tricky El Camino signs showing the frequent turn offs. I kept thinking we were on the wrong trail because we had been told the hike into Logrono was on […]

We decided over breakfast that we are in need of a break, so today will be a rest day in Viana. We are in a nice hotel, an old palace that was renovated to be a hotel. For us that means a room for three with an attached bathroom, a luxury for us. The restaurant […]

The days are blending together now with difficulty for me in differentiating one day from the next. We are putting in longer miles, usually feeling the last few miles. The Camino continues through quaint Spanish towns often perched on top of hills with a church at the center of town. The houses are made of […]